当我们讨论食文化，应该讨论什么？

What should we discuss when we discuss food culture?

如今在食文化极其深厚的我国，美食纪录片已经并不少见了，《舌尖上的中国》一经推出作为优质纪录片系列在全国范围内爆红，之后我国各式各样的美食纪录片越来越多，比如记录互联网美食的《宅人食堂》、记录顺德美食文化的《寻味顺德》等等

Nowadays, in China, where food culture is extremely profound, food documentaries have not been seen. "China on the tip of the tongue" has been launched as a high-quality documentary series in the country. After that, there are more and more food documentaries in China. For example, the "Housekeeper's Canteen" for recording Internet food, "Sou Wei Shunde" for recording Shunde's food culture, etc...

但《舌尖上的中国》并没有保持一个好势头，在经历了海报抄袭、镜头抄袭等等负面新闻后，第三季更是因为明显的常识性错误、越来越多的广告以及鼓励口红造假等问题评分直线下降。

However, "China on the tip of the tongue" did not maintain a good momentum. After experiencing negative news such as poster plagiarism, lens plagiarism, etc., the third season was due to obvious common sense mistakes, more and more advertisements and "encourage lipstick". The scores of questions such as "falsification" plummeted.

《舌尖上的中国》第三季的失败让冷眼君忍不住思考，美食类节目的生命力到底要怎样保持，而去年年初Netflix推出了一档美食类纪录片《Ugly Delicious》给这个问题交出了一个完美的答案。

The failure of the third season of "China on the tip of the tongue" made Cold Eyes unable to bear to think about how the vitality of food programs should be maintained. At the beginning of last year, Netflix launched a gourmet documentary - "Ugly Delicious" to give this question. A perfect answer came out.

《Ugly Delicious》短短八集却跟随著名厨师David Chang的脚步探寻了各种各样的美食文化，相比《舌尖上的中国》，《Ugly Delicious》的探讨更加有宽度，从饮食的习惯、发展出发，延伸到世界范围的历史、文化、种族的交汇，十分动人。

In just eight episodes of "Ugly Delicious", he followed the famous chef David Chang to explore a variety of food cultures. Compared to "China on the tip of the tongue", "Ugly Delicious" is more wide-ranging, from eating habits, It is very moving from the beginning of development to the intersection of history, culture and ethnicity around the world.

核心人物David Chang的强烈个人意见，使节目表达更丰富

The strong personal opinion of the core character David Chang makes the show more expressive

冷眼君曾经探讨过欧美纪录片中经常出现的核心人物，纪录片通常跟随这些核心人物的脚步对某一事物进行探索，而这个核心人物与节目的贴合程度决定了节目的品质。

Leng Yanjun once discussed the "core figures" that often appear in European and American documentaries. Documentaries usually follow the footsteps of these core figures to explore a certain thing, and the degree of fit between the core characters and the program determines the quality of the program.

David Chang显然是这个节目成功的关键。他是一位美籍韩国人，在美国长大，是一个资深厨师，同时他对饮食文化很有自己的想法。节目中David Chang的朋友表示，他是一个对一切都有很强的自我观点的人，大部分都是错的。

David Chang is clearly the key to the success of this show. He is an American Korean who grew up in the United States and is a senior chef. He also has his own ideas about food culture. David Chang's friend on the show said that he is a person who has a strong self-consideration of everything, and most of them are wrong.

这样一个性格十分鲜明，又乐于表达的人是很适合纪录片的，比如他说自己会因为一些烹饪界的势利眼告诉他不可以喜欢达美乐（快餐披萨店），于是他就认真的喜欢达美乐。

甚至他还在节目中穿上达美乐披萨店制服，体验送披萨的工作。

这种强烈的自我以及对美食探索的欲望让他和朋友以及世界各地的厨师有了一种奇妙的联系，观点相互碰撞，但彼此都在吸收知识。这对于他们来说是一种十分良性的交流，对于节目来说也是内容丰富程度的保证。

同时这档节目不止有David Chang，还有他生活在世界各地的朋友们和他一起探索美食背后的文化背景，他们既可以帮助David Chang迅速融入不同的文化，更提供了多元化的思维。

比如David Chang和朋友们探讨中国美食被世界范围认可并熟知的可能性时，几位男性都认为，几十年前意大利美食也仅仅是十分本土化的食物，目前很多人可以区分多种披萨类型。

而另外一位朋友会一针见血的指出，意大利美食可以被世界范围认可是因为意大利人是白人。

节目中所有的交流、讨论作为美食体验的辅助，传递了十分强烈的价值观。而美食体验部分也很有看头，无论是David Chang和朋友们坐在街头吃tacos，还是在中国街头吃肯德基，每一部分都充满热情。

对食文化的深度探讨，让节目立意更有厚度

刚才简单聊了一下《舌尖上的中国》，冷眼君认为这档节目之所以在第三季质量迅速下滑的原因可能是过度追求表面，而忽略了内核。

《舌尖上的中国》第一季播出时，因其记录了许多地区特色食物，以及食材的获取，朴实人家的烹饪，更别说考究的旁白和画面，这种精致迅速获得了观众的一致好评。

In-depth study of food culture, let the program have a more thickness

Just briefly talked about "China on the tip of the tongue". Leng Yanjun believes that the reason why the quality of this program in the third quarter is rapidly declining may be excessive pursuit of the surface, while ignoring the kernel.

When the first season of "China on the tip of the tongue" was broadcast, because it recorded many regional specialties, as well as the acquisition of ingredients, the simple cooking, not to mention the elegant narration and the picture, this exquisite quickly gained the consensus of the audience. Praise.

第二季《舌尖上的中国》更注重讲述人与食物的故事，将食物和生活揉在一起，更有烟火气，虽然评分略低于第一季，但与人物故事的结合让针对食物的讲述更有宽度，这点是冷眼君很喜欢的，也是《Ugly Deilicious》做的最出色的一部分。

The second season, "China on the Tip of the Tongue" pays more attention to telling the story of people and food, bringing food and life together, and more smouldering. Although the score is slightly lower than the first season, the combination with the story of the characters makes food-oriented Telling more width, this is what Cool Eye Jun likes and is the best part of Ugly Deilicious.

到了第三季，《舌尖上的中国》放弃了对食文化的挖掘，反其道开始大讲食器，算是回到了起点，再加上广告和常识性错误，连起点也不如了。

In the third quarter, "China on the tip of the tongue" gave up the excavation of the food culture, and the other way began to talk about the food, which was back to the starting point, plus advertising and common sense mistakes, even the starting point was not as good.

《舌尖上的中国》走入的怪圈我国其他美食类节目也大多受困其中。去年b站红极一时的《人生一串》也算质量上乘，风格幽默风趣也算是独树一帜，但讨论的维度也仍然局限于生活与食物。

The "China on the tip of the tongue" has entered the strange circle. Most of the other food programs in China are also trapped. Last year's smash hit "Life in a string" is also considered to be of superior quality, and humorous style is also unique, but the dimensions of discussion are still limited to life and food.

而制霸央视二套多年的《厨王争霸赛》则更简单的在讨论烹饪技法，这种简单带来的是稳定且毫无外扩可能性的受众群。

The two-year-old "King of the Kings" is a simpler discussion of cooking techniques. This simpleness brings about a stable and unexpanded audience.

但生活和烹饪技法之上，食物承载着十分厚重的文化，那是最有趣也最丰富的部分，可讨论的也太多。《Ugly delicious》中就已经出现了大量的值得思考的话题。

他们探寻为什么美国黑人十分忌讳大家将黑人与炸鸡、西瓜联系起来，并认为这是十分粗鲁的歧视性行为。

But above life and cooking techniques, food carries a very heavy culture. It is the most interesting and richest part, and there are too many discussions. There have been a lot of topics worth thinking about in Ugly delicious.

They explored why African Americans were very jealous that they linked blacks to fried chickens and watermelons and thought it was a very rude discriminatory act.

他们采访在美国开华人餐馆的老板，讨论为什么他只做西式中餐。

They interviewed the owner of a Chinese restaurant in the United States to discuss why he only made Western-style Chinese food.

探讨小笼包的诞生是否与烹饪训练息息相关。

Exploring whether the birth of Xiaolongbao is closely related to cooking training.

食物在文化的影响下如何诞生、演变、传播一点一点铺陈开来，同一种食物在不同的国度又会发生怎样的改变？

How does food be born, evolved, and spread under the influence of culture? How can the same kind of food change in different countries?

食物又会怎样影响人们的身份认同？

How does food affect people's identity?

每一个话题被抛出来都很有意思，随意的场景里聊出宏大的话题，又给足观众思考的空间。

冷眼君曾经提过，许多节目的创新通常浅尝辄止，停留在模式的层面，反而对立意的挖掘不够。这也是美食类节目的困境，中国美食菜系繁多，种类复杂，背后承载的文化之深远足够撑起民族自豪感，但反而美食类节目都十分默契的把这种文化探寻舍弃了。

冷眼君认为，《Ugly Delicious》的出现应该可以给我国美食类节目的制作提供很好的启发，顶尖美食类节目绝不该止步于《舌尖上的中国》。最后分享一个有趣的观点，《Ugly Delicious》在探讨日本披萨如何进行本土化改造时提到，音乐也好，食物也好，任何事情的发展都始于copy。

It is very interesting to throw out every topic. In the casual scene, you can talk about the big topic and give the audience room to think.

Cold Eye Jun once mentioned that the innovation of many programs is usually a little bit of a stop, staying at the level of the model, but not enough to explore the idea. This is also the dilemma of food programs. There are many kinds of Chinese cuisines, and the variety is complex. The culture behind them is far enough to support national pride. However, the food programs are very tacit understanding and abandoned this cultural exploration.

Cold Eye Jun believes that the emergence of "Ugly Delicious" should provide a good inspiration for the production of Chinese food programs. The top food programs should never stop at China on the tip of the tongue. Finally, I shared an interesting point. "Ugly Delicious" mentioned in the discussion of how Japanese pizza is localized. Music is good, food is good, and everything develops from "copy".